TOM:

TOM:
Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home
Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE:
And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM:
And what are you working on on this beautiful weekend? If it’s your house, you
are in the right place because that’s what we do: we help you get those
projects done. If it’s a job that you’ve been thinking about doing and you’d
like to get it done before the holidays or if it’s a project you’d like to plan
for the months ahead, give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT because we
are here to get you the info, the advice, the tips to get a job done right the
first time so you won’t have to do it again.

Coming
up on today’s show, are you hoping to avoid the flu in the coming months? Well,
hands-free, motion-activated faucets are good for cutting down on the spread of
germs in public restrooms. And they can work in your home, as well. We’re going
to give you some tips to get that project done.

LESLIE:
And here’s a question: what’s the difference between a garage and a home
workshop or gym that you can use year-round? Well, often as little as 20 or 30
degrees. We’ve got tips to help heat your garage, to help you find a much more
usable space.

TOM:
And backyard fire pits are really hot right now – I mean literally – and you
could totally build one yourself. We’ll have the tips you need to get started
and to get roasting those s’mores in no time at all.

LESLIE:
Plus, if you’re ready to tackle some tree-trimming this fall, you’ll especially
want to call in with your home improvement question. We’re giving away a
Greenworks 60-Volt Lithium-Ion 18-Inch Brushless Cordless Electric Chainsaw,
battery included. This is a great prize worth 330 bucks.

TOM:
That’s right. It’s available at Lowe’s and Lowes.com but we’ve got one to give
away on today’s show. It’s going to go one to one caller drawn at random. Make
that you. Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974.

Let’s
get to it. Leslie, who’s first?

LESLIE:
Nancy in Georgia, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?

NANCY:
I have a problem in an upstairs bedroom that is on an exterior wall. I have had
the floor taken up from down to the subfloor and there’s all sorts of water
stains under the window there. Now, I know it’s not from having had the window
open.

TOM:
Are the water stains active or are they just old stains?

NANCY:
That’s what I don’t know. That’s why I’m – that’s my concern. I don’t know how
to figure out whether they’re old or not. Five years ago, I had the outside
siding replaced and the windows replaced.

TOM:
Well, listen, if they’re wet right now, you would know it. You’d probably see …

NANCY:
No, they aren’t wet. And I’ve been waiting for two weeks for it to rain to find
out if …

TOM:
Yeah.

NANCY:
We haven’t had any rain. And that’s really the only way I know to figure it out
– is to wait until it rains.

TOM:
Yeah. I would say it’s most likely – they’re most likely old leaks. If they’re
not – I think if they were wet now, you would know it. You would have other
signs of this. You would have leaks below, stains below, that sort of thing. I
don’t think this is active. This sounds to me like it happened maybe during the
remodeling but maybe not. You can continue to wait for rain. You could also run
a hose on the outside of the house, around the windows, and see if anything
leaks.

But
I suspect that these are old leaks and you can probably just cover it up again.

NANCY:
OK. That sounds wonderful. I’m putting hardwood on it. So, will it – it feels
fairly smooth so I shouldn’t have to replace the subfloor there.

TOM:
Not unless it’s warped or twisted. But if it just has the stains on it, then it
should be OK.

Are
you using engineered hardwood or are you using solid hardwood?

NANCY:
I’m using solid hardwood.

TOM:
So, you’re going to – it’s going to be nailed down to that floor and then the
floors are going to be finished. Is that correct?

NANCY:
Correct.

TOM:
OK. Yeah, I think you’re probably good to go.

NANCY:
OK. Thank you very much.

TOM:
Well, good luck. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.

NANCY:
Thank you.

LESLIE:
Now we’ve got Mark in Iowa on the line who’s got an insulation question. How
can we help you today?

MARK:
Live here in the Midwest so, obviously, we do get the temperatures getting
below zero. So I’ve been kind of doing some research on the spray foam. And the
one question that I’m not for certain of is when it comes to the walls and then
the sill plate.

TOM: OK.

MARK: The
best thing I can determine is it looks like when it comes to the walls, it’s
probably the closed cell. But then getting up into the sill plate, I can’t tell
– I’ve seen it two ways: one says it’d be OK with the closed cell and others,
eh, just fill the whole thing with open cell. Don’t know what’s the best way to
go.

TOM: OK.
Have you taken a look at the Icynene products?

MARK:
Yes, I have.

TOM:
Because we’ve had some very positive experiences with Icynene. And we also have
been in homes where Icynene has been applied and in particular, they use them
on a number of This Old House
properties and had very good success. So I’m very comfortable with that
product.

Now, in
terms of open cell versus closed cell, don’t necessarily have a preference. But
the key with the spray-foam insulations is to make sure that A) you have a
good-quality product and B) that you have very trained installers. Because the
installation can – you can really make it or break it when it comes to the
installation quality. If you don’t have installers that are really experienced
with the products, they can leave areas that are underinsulated. They can
actually apply too much insulation and cause problems as a result of that.

So I
would focus on the product and the installers that are going to put it together
first.

MARK: OK.
Alright. I guess my biggest concern is I haven’t seen any indication to worry
about water/moisture issues. But it’s the wind barrier – the air barrier …

TOM:
Well, there’s two benefits to using spray-foam insulation over a fiberglass
insulation. The first is, of course, the insulating ability but the second is
the air-barrier ability. Because spray-foam insulation both seals out drafts
and insulates at the same time. So that’s the benefit of that product over,
say, a batt product like fiberglass or frankly, even cellulose because you don’t
get the air-sealing capabilities.

Now, is
this a new home that you’re constructing? Where is the insulation going to be
used?

MARK:
Yeah, it was an unfinished basement when we moved in. Built in about 2005,
2006.

TOM: How’s
the rest of the house insulated?

MARK: Up
in the ceiling, it is kind of like, oh, the real fluffy type of cotton spray.

TOM: It
sounds like blown-in fiberglass.

MARK:
Yeah. It’s not rolled or anything. It is loose, so it could be raked around and
everything but it doesn’t itch to the touch. For the most part, it’s
well-insulated. It’s just the basement was poured concrete. It looks like the
brick look and I’m finishing the basement. And if I’m going to spend a little
money, I’d rather do it right and that’s why I’ve been trying to bypass the
fiberglass and looking at the spray foam.

TOM: Yep.
Well, also, you’re going to find that there’s a lot of drafts that get into
that band-joist area and that’s going to make the first floor a lot warmer.

MARK:
Yep.

TOM:
Finally, to kind of address your question about open versus closed, what we
hear from the marketplace is that many people really prefer closed over open,
because it reduces the chance of moisture getting into the product.

MARK:
Yep. And that’s why the walls, I’ve kind of leaned more towards that but the
sill-plate area, there’s some areas where it might be hard for them to spray in
there. And that’s where one of the quotes I got back was recommending to going
just straight open cell and just fill it.

TOM: It
really depends on whether – what you need to do to get 100-percent coverage.
And if the tools – and that may be the truth because the tools have to get up
in there and they may not be flexible enough for some of those nooks and
crannies in that particular scenario. So, yeah, if that’s what feedback – I
wouldn’t necessarily disagree with that.

OK. Well,
good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE:
You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Give us a call anytime at
888-MONEY-PIT.

888-MONEY-PIT
is presented by HomeAdvisor. Get instantly matched with top-rated pros for any
home project and book appointments online for free.

TOM:
Coming up, you wash your hands to get rid of germs but you may be picking up
even more of them when you touch the handle to turn off the water. We’re going
to have some tips to undo that dirty irony with a hygienic home solution worth
considering, especially as flu season is here. That’s all coming up, after
this.

Making
good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom
Kraeutler.

LESLIE:
And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM:
Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the
fast and easy way to find the right pro for any kind of home project, whether
it’s a small repair or a major remodel.

And
if you do give us a call with your home improvement question, we will toss your
name in The Money Pit hard hat, because we’re going to pull one listener out at
the end of the show and hand off a Greenworks 60-Volt Lithium-Ion 18-Inch
Brushless Cordless Electric Chainsaw.

This
tool amazes me, Leslie, because all the years that I struggled with gas-powered
chainsaws and some where you had the two strokes where you had to mix up the
oil and the gas, you know. Messy to use, expensive, always needs a tune-up, it
seems, because it never wants to run the next year no matter how good a job you
do cleaning it. That’s all behind us now because this chainsaw can make 180
cuts on a single battery charge. That’s pretty amazing, right?

LESLIE:
That’s amazing.

TOM:
So if you’d like to win it, give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT,
888-666-3974.

Now,
the Greenworks Brushless Cordless 18-inch Chainsaw is available at Lowe’s and
Lowes.com for 329 bucks. But it’s going out to one listener drawn at random.
Make that you. Pick up the phone, call us, right now, with your how-to
question, your décor dilemma. That number, again: 888-666-3974.

LESLIE:
Debbie in Delaware, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?

DEBBIE: I
have a home built in 2006. I have an unfinished basement. All the walls are
cement. My air conditioning and heating unit is down there.

TOM: OK.

DEBBIE: I
have a very fine, white – it’s not even a dust; it’s like a powder that’s
getting through the whole house.

TOM:
Through the whole house.

DEBBIE:
It’s going through the whole house. It’s got to be coming through the heating
and air-conditioning vent.

TOM: OK.
Hmm.

DEBBIE: I
don’t know if it’s something – it feels like the same powder that is on the
cement walls. Like something was sprayed onto them?

TOM: So
are – these are concrete-block walls?

DEBBIE:
Solid concrete.

TOM:
Solid concrete. Alright. And do you see any sort of white powder that’s
sticking to the concrete – to the cement wall?

DEBBIE:
Absolutely.

TOM: You
do? OK.

DEBBIE:
Yes, absolutely.

TOM: So …

DEBBIE:
Like if I go to wipe my finger on and it’s in this chalkboard?

TOM: Yep,
OK. So here’s what’s going on. Then they may be – it may not be connected,
these two observations. But in so far as the walls are concerned, that’s a
mineral-salt deposit. And what happens is the water that collects around the
outside of your foundation will draw into the wall. The walls are very
absorptive. And it will draw into the wall and it will evaporate – the moisture
will evaporate – into your basement but it will leave behind the mineral-salt
deposits that are in the soil and in the water.

DEBBIE:
OK.

TOM: And
that’s that white powder. Sometimes it looks light gray. And you can prove it
to yourself just by taking a little bit of vinegar and wiping down the wall.
Usually, vinegar will melt salts and makes it disappear.

DEBBIE:
OK.

TOM: Now,
it’s nothing harmful about it but it does indicate that you have too much
moisture collecting around your foundation perimeter, Debbie, so I do want you
to take a look out there and make sure that the soil is sloped to grade away
from the walls. Also, make sure that your gutters are clean and free-flowing
and that you’re not doing anything to really retain water at the foundation
perimeter.

In the
worst-case scenario, this kind of situation can develop into a wet basement.
And so we don’t want it to get that far for you.

DEBBIE:
No. Could that be getting into the air conditioning and the heating unit?

TOM:
Doubtful. I think you’re seeing some other type of dust that’s getting into the
HVAC system, so let’s talk about what to do with that.

Now, in
most cases with homes that were built and – you said 2006. In that era, most of
the heating systems are going to have a fiberglass filter in them. Now, do you
know where your filter is for your air conditioner and heating …?

DEBBIE: I
do.

TOM: OK.
Is it in the blower compartment?

DEBBIE:
Yes.

TOM: OK.
So, typically, if you look in there, you’ve got a very thin, fiberglass filter.
Those are not very effective filters; they just don’t do a great job.

DEBBIE:
That’s the one that I change?

TOM:
Yeah, the one that you change. Exactly.

DEBBIE:
OK.

TOM: Now,
what you could do is you could get a better-quality filter for that same space.

DEBBIE: I
change them like every month.

TOM:
Yeah, I know. And the thing is, you shouldn’t have to. You have to change them
every month because they are not very good filters.

DEBBIE:
OK.

TOM: And
they clog up easily and they let a lot of stuff through. And we call them “rock
stoppers,” because it’s pretty much all they stop.

So, what
you might want to do is get a – first of all, you can get a better-quality
filter for that blower compartment. And if you look for one that’s pleated,
that’s a good start. 3M has a line of filters that are pretty efficient. They’re
going to have a MERV rating on them – M-E-R-V.

Now, when
you look at the MERV number, keep in mind that the higher the number, the
better.

DEBBIE:
OK.

TOM: So,
a MERV 8 is better than a MERV 5. And a MERV 12 is better than a MERV 8. And so
the higher the MERV number, the more efficient the filter system.

Now, if
you want to step it up from there and really put a much better-quality
air-cleaning system onto the house, then you may look to an electronic air
cleaner or an electrostatic air cleaner. And these would require a slight
modification of your ducts. With the electronic air cleaner, it fits basically
somewhere in the return side. And it’s about 3 inches wide and it uses a
combination of static electricity and a filter to pull absolutely all the dust
out. Now we’re talking about a filter that can take out minute-sized particles
of dust and air and even virus-sized particles.

DEBBIE:
OK. Thank you.

TOM:
Well, hands-free faucets have been around for commercial use for decades. But
we’re now seeing more and more designed for the home and found that they do
provide quite a number of advantages.

LESLIE:
Well, for one, you don’t have to worry about your hands being dirty or soapy or
full, quite frankly. They’re also great for keeping germ counts down around the
house – you know, less hands touching less surfaces – and that’s something that
can come in really handy, especially during the holiday season when you’ve got
a full household of kids, pets, elderly relatives. It’s very easy to pass those
germs around, so the less touching of surfaces the better.

TOM: Yeah.
And they have other advantages, like you can save some water because there’s no
running faucet while you’re soaping up your hands. They’re great for people
with limited hand mobility, too.

LESLIE:
Yeah. And what I really like is whenever I feel like I’m cooking and maybe I’m
putting bacon into a pan or I’m cutting raw chicken and then I’m reaching for
the faucet and I’m reaching for the soap and I’m just cross-contaminating
everything – and this is great because when my hands are all filled with
everything from the kitchen, I just run my hands under the faucet.

TOM:
Yeah. And they’re good for kids who can’t reach, as well. They just need to be
able to touch or wave the faucet.

I mean
the way they work is, essentially, there is a battery pack that activates a
valve so that when you break the beam, the battery gives the valve just enough
juice to open. And then when you’re done, of course, take your hand away, it’s
finished.

The
batteries actually last for quite a long time. I’ve read some of them are rated
to last a full year, so it’s pretty low-maintenance once you get this thing
installed. I think it’s a cool idea. I think I’m definitely interested in
trying it.

LESLIE: Jeff in Delaware is dealing with a mysterious
sulfur odor from a well. Tell us what’s going on.

JEFF: Well, we have a well and I have a water
softener on it, a filter and – cartridge filter – and we still have a lot of
iron in our water and it has a real strong sulfur smell. And I don’t know
anything else to do and it – sometimes, if it sits for – if we go out of town
and come back a day or two later, the smell is just horrendous. And I was just
wondering if you guys could give me any tips.

TOM: Jeff, that sulfur smell may not be coming from
the well; it could be coming from the water heater. Have you considered that?

JEFF: No, sir.

TOM: Because if the anode in the water heater is
wearing away, that can result in a very strong sulfur odor. Have you noticed if
the sulfur odor is more prevalent in the hot water or the cold?

JEFF: Hot. Yes, sir. It is.

TOM: Yeah. I don’t think it’s the well at all; I
think it’s your water heater.

JEFF: Oh, wow. Well, that would be great. OK. What’s
the solution?

TOM: Now, you can replace the anode in the water
heater.

JEFF: OK.

TOM: It basically unbolts from the top of the water
heater. If you look at the top of the water heater, you’ll see what looks like
a big hex nut. And you can unscrew that, pull out the old rod and put in a new
one.

JEFF: Oh, OK.

TOM: So I think you might be looking at the wrong
place for the source. I think the problem is the water heater and not the well.

JEFF: Well, I will sure try that. That’ll be a simple
fix for me.

TOM: It certainly will be. It’s called a “sacrificial
anode” for that reason. You sacrifice a little bit every time, for all the time
that it’s in there. And at some point, sometimes it develops the point where it
has a sulfur smell.

If you add a replacement anode to there, that should
help alleviate the sulfur smell. Because, essentially, what’s happening is the
anode contributes to the production of hydrogen-sulfide gas and that’s what has
that nasty, rotten-egg odor to it. OK?

JEFF: Well, I really do appreciate that. Man, I
appreciate you taking my call. I sure do.

TOM: You’re very welcome. Good luck with that
project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Remember, you can reach us 24 hours a day, 7
days a week right here at 888-MONEY-PIT with your home repair or your home improvement
question.

Coming up, do you want to pick up a bit more space
this winter season? We’ll tell you how and where to look, when The Money Pit
continues.

TOM: Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit
Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: Call
in your home improvement question, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by
HomeAdvisor.

Hey, do
you need some new flooring in your kitchen or your bath? HomeAdvisor can
instantly match you with the right pro for the job, for free.

LESLIE: Now we’ve got Antoinette in Ohio on the line
looking to put a bathroom in the basement. How can we help you with that
project?

ANTOINETTE: Is there possible – a shower? I think it
– when you were on earlier – that you don’t have to go through the – if it’s in
the basement, you don’t have to go through the cement to put a flow of the
water that comes out of the shower to the drain?

TOM: So, Antoinette, am I hearing that you’d like to
add a shower to your basement?

ANTOINETTE: Yeah.

TOM: And you’d like to do that without the use of a
jackhammer, correct?

ANTOINETTE: Yes.

TOM: OK. So, you can do that. There is a way to add a
shower and have that shower drain to a reservoir, which then pumps the water up
high enough to drop it into your regular drain-waste vent line that takes all
of the waste out of the house.

ANTOINETTE: Oh, that way – because I’ve got drains
down in the basement, see. And that’s where – my washer goes to that drain.
That’s why I wanted a shower, so that when the water – the dirty water – comes
through the shower part, that it’ll go right into the same drain.

TOM: And where is that draining eventually?

ANTOINETTE: Well, it goes through – well, just where
all the water of the – your bathtub and your kitchen water, they all go the
same place.

TOM: If the drain is low enough where you can do that
with a basement shower, then that’s how you would do it.

ANTOINETTE: Yeah. But do they have bases on the
shower – you know, your base of your shower that has it that you can do that?

TOM: You build up the shower so it’s not flush on the
floor of the basement. It would be on – stepped-up a few inches to a foot or
so, so you could get the plumbing in there. And then you would make sure that
you drain that, if possible, to a lower point where the house drain can pick it
up. But if not possible, you drop in what’s called a “lift pump.” The lift pump
lifts the water up and then drops it into the main drain line for the house and
carries it out and away.

ANTOINETTE: OK. Well, that’s a good idea. OK.

LESLIE: Well, if you’re an avid DIYer and happen to
have a garage, you can bet there are many projects that get worked on in that
space. But in the wintertime, that gets a lot tougher as the garage is the one
place under your roof that’s probably not heated.

Well, today, however, adding garage heating is a task
that has become very common for homeowners, especially since so few of us use
the space for actually parking a car.

TOM: That’s so true.

LESLIE: I mean I don’t know anybody who does that.

You know, today, garages are just as likely to serve
as the laundry room, a workshop, a play area, even just a hang-out zone for
your pets.

TOM: If it’s a project you’d like to explore, the
most common option is a forced-air heater.

Now, the forced-air heaters give you instant heat,
kind of like a conventional furnace. And they’re designed to solve pretty much
any outdoor-heating need. They come in gas or electric, they’re pretty easy to
use and install and they’re a great way to warm an entire garage. They do,
however – if they’re gas need a gas line. And of course, you’re going to need
an electrical outlet. And the size is also going to depend on how much space
you need to heat and where you’re located in the country.

LESLIE: Right. But here’s a basic rule of thumb for
forced-air garage heaters: you’re going to need 45,000 BTUs to heat a 2- to
2½-car garage and 60,000 BTUs for a 3-car garage. So, keep in mind that by
comparison to your home heating system, that’s a lot of extra heating expense.

TOM: It really is. Most homes are going to have a
60,000- to 90,000-BTU system for the entire house. So this is a lot for just
the garage.

Now, one way to keep that expense down is to insulate
your garage. You’ve got to remember that usually, only the wall between the
house and the garage is going to contain insulation, because that’s what’s
required by building code. And for detached garages, they probably have no
insulation. So you want to make sure that you have insulation around the
exterior walls and also at the level of the garage ceiling to help keep that
heat in. And then, of course, when it comes to the door, a bit of extra
garage-door weather-stripping at the bottom, where the door meets the concrete
slab, as well as around the perimeter is really going to be important.

But all in, I think heating the garage is an easy
do-it-yourself project that can really give you an extra maybe three, four,
even five months of use of that space, whereas otherwise you wouldn’t really
ever dare set foot in it.

LESLIE: Now we’ve got Frank in Texas on the line with a
structural question. What’s going on at your money pit?

FRANK: Yes, I’ve got an older home, post-and-beam
construction. I have about a 4×8 beam that’s cracked diagonally. And I’ve
already poured a footer – a 2-foot by 2-foot by 6-inch footer – and I plan on
bracing that. But what I’m wondering, once I jack it back into position, number
one, is there an adhesive that might help hold it together? And on the sides, I
want to marry in a support. Should I use OSB, plywood or a 2×8?

TOM: What you would do is you would put another beam next
to it that has to go the same width. It has to go bearing point to bearing
point as the split beam. And then you would glue it with a construction
adhesive from the new beam to the split beam. And I would bolt them together.
And if you do that on a beam-by-beam basis, then it should be an acceptable
repair.

It’s just a little tricky because you’ve got to get that
new beam next to the old beam and it’s going to not be straight. And you’re going
to have to work around wires and plumbing and such to get it in there and nice
and tight.

But take your time fitting that beam. If you get the new
beam in right, then it could be quite strong.

LESLIE: Remember, you can reach us 24 hours a day, 7 days a
week with your home repair, home improvement, seasonal question. Whatever it is
you are working on, we’re here to lend a hand at 888-MONEY-PIT.

Well, backyard fire pits are really hot right now,
literally. And you can totally build one yourself, guys, so it’s a great
project. We’ll have tips to help you get started, in today’s Better Get a Truck
Tip presented by Hertz, after this.

TOM: Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money
Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: Hey, do you have some tree-trimming planned for this
fall? Well, if so, you definitely want to pick up the phone and call us, right
now, because we’re giving away a Greenworks 18-Inch Brushless Cordless Electric
Chainsaw, battery included. It’s going out to one caller drawn at random. It’s
worth 329 bucks. Gives you all the power you need for up to 180 cuts on a single
charge. It’s got a brushless motor that’s engineered to provide more power,
torque, quiet operation and longer motor life. Plus, it’s easy to operate.
There’s a convenient push-button start. No messy, smelly or loud gas engines.

It’s available at Lowe’s and Lowes.com for 329 bucks. But
that Greenworks 18-Inch Brushless Cordless Electric Chainsaw is going out to
one listener drawn at random. Want to make it you? Well, pick up the phone,
call us, right now, with your home improvement question, your décor dilemma.
That number is 888-666-3974.

LESLIE: Christine in Alaska is on the line with a question
about insulation.

What’s going on at your money pit, Christina?

CHRISTINE: Actually, my question is: how do I keep my
floors above the unheated crawlspace warm? And I was wondering if we could
insulate the floor underneath without – but would that cause the pipes that are
down there to freeze?

TOM: No, it wouldn’t cause them to freeze. The crawlspace
is designed to be an unheated space. But since you’re going to be down there
anyway, what I would tell you to do, Christine, would be to insulate those
pipes. So, you can do that with pipe insulation that basically is designed to
be wrapped around the pipe. And when it comes to the corners, that’s where
sometimes people get a little lazy. Make sure you insulate the corners real
well by cutting the joints perfectly. They’re made of foam rubber, so you can
easily snip them. But I would insulate all the pipes and then I would
definitely insulate the floor.

In fact, I’m surprised it’s not insulated now. You want to
choose an insulation that is as thick as the floor is deep. So if it’s 2x10s
that are your floor beams, make sure you use 10-inch-deep, unfaced fiberglass
insulation. Get it up there in between those floor joists and then that can be
supported with wire hangers. They’re kind of like thin wires that are a little
bit wider than the floor joists are apart. And they sort of stick into the wood
on both sides and support that insulation in place. And I think you will see an
amazing difference in the warmth of those floors once you do that.

CHRISTINE: That sounds great.

TOM: Alright. Well, it’s going to be a much warmer winter
for you as a result.

Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us
at 888-MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Well, backyard fire pits are really hot right now,
literally. On cool nights, who doesn’t want to melt marshmallows and have the
great smell of a campfire right in your backyard?

TOM: Yep. And with just a bit of planning and a trip to
your local building-supply store, you can build a fire pit yourself. We’re
going to have some tips to help you get that project done, in today’s Better
Get a Truck Tip presented by Hertz.

Now, the first decision might be the most important and
that is: where is the best place to build it? Many towns have what are known as
open-burn laws, which dictate how close to your house or your neighbor’s house
a fire pit can be located. So, you need to pick that spot carefully. I can’t
tell you how many times, in the years I spent as a professional home inspector,
that I found fire pits, grills or other heat-generating appliances too close to
homes. And sometimes, I could actually see melted siding as a result.

LESLIE: Now, the fire pit itself, it’s got to be low to the
ground. You don’t want it any higher than 1 foot and that’s simply for
stability. So, bury the base below the ground and line it with gravel for
drainage.

Now, when it comes to build it, you’ve got lots of options
for materials. If you don’t want to haul heavy, real stones, you can use blocks
that are made from cast concrete and molded to look like the real thing. In
either case, you’re going to need to line up a truck or a van to get all of the
materials back to your house. Hertz has a full line that can help.

You’re also going to need to pick up a thick, steel ring to
line the fire pit, like the ones you see at park campfires. These protect the
concrete in the blocks from the heat, which can cause them to dry out and then
break down.

TOM: Now, building the pit is really the easy and the fun
part. Construction begins with a trench that’s wide enough to support those
blocks. That should get filled with stone and tamped down to create a firm,
level base.

Next, you just set the blocks on the stone and use a
zig-zag bead of masonry adhesive across the two adjacent blocks to hold more
layers. Make sure any interlocking parts on the blocks fit together well. And
continue until the second or third course is finished and you’re going to be
roasting those s’mores in no time at all.

LESLIE: And that’s today’s
Better Get a Truck Tip presented by Hertz. For any home project, store pickup
or move that needs more than your car can handle, remember HDTV: Hertz Does
Trucks and Vans.

TOM:
Book now at Hertz.com.

LESLIE:
Adele in New Jersey is on the line with a flooring question. How can we help
you today?

ADELE: We
just had new carpeting installed in our living room/dining room and we’re
having the balance of the house done in about a week-and-a-half. We are now
finding, when you walk through the living-room and dining-room area, we are
getting a few squeaks in the floor in walking.

Now,
whether that has anything to do with our subfloor – the house is approximately
only 28 years old. We bought it new when it was built. Now, do you think it
might be a problem with the subflooring? We do have a crawlspace.

TOM: So,
underneath the carpet, what is the subfloor? Is it plywood?

ADELE:
Yes.

TOM: OK.
So, you have a good opportunity now, not for the rooms that you’ve already
carpeted but for the ones you’re about to carpet. When you take up the old
carpet, you need to go through and re-nail or screw the subfloor down to the
floor joist. Because those boards loosen up and as you step on them, they’ll –
they move back and forth and that’s the squeak.

So, what
I would like to see your contractor do is pull the carpet up and then take some
drywall screws – these case-hardened steel screws that are sold everywhere
today – and physically screw the plywood down to the floor joist. You put a
screw in – about four screws across the width of the plywood on every single
floor joist. You just go from one end to the other. They’re driven in with a
drill, so it’s a very easy job to do. And that will really tighten up that
floor and reduce the movement dramatically and that will prevent, if not
eliminate, squeaks under that carpet.

ADELE:
Yes. Oh, that sounds terrific. Thank you so much for your help.

TOM: Alright, Adele. Good luck with that project. Thanks so
much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.

You are listening to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show
presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never worry about overpaying for a job. Use the
HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to see what others paid for a similar project. It’s
all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.

LESLIE: Coming up, fall is a popular time for painting. But
before you start, there is one thing that you absolutely must do if you want to
make that project a success. We’ll have that solution, next.

TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home
Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: Call us now with your home improvement question at
1-888-MONEY-PIT or you can post your question to us on The Money Pit’s Facebook
page at Facebook.com/TheMoneyPit.

And that’s what Susan did. What’s Susan working on, Leslie?

LESLIE: Alright. Well, Susan has written here. She says, “I’m
trying to solve a problem with peeling paint. I paint in my son’s room, it just
peels right off in long strips and it looks like rubber. I want to repaint the
room but I have no idea how to handle the areas where that paint is peeling.
What should I do?”

TOM: Well, there’s one cardinal rule for painting and you
can’t put good paint on top of bad paint. It sounds like what is on that room
right now, Susan, is in fact bad paint. So, what you have to do is basically
remove all of that old paint. If that paint is peeling off, you’ve got to keep
peeling it back until you get to a fairly solid surface.

Now, you might need to use some paint stripper to do that.
And before you actually tackle that paint-stripping project, I want you to read
the article on MoneyPit.com about how to choose a safe paint stripper. Because
there have been something like 60 deaths from folks using paint strippers that
have certain chemicals. And we lay that out for you in the post on
MoneyPit.com. Just search for “safe paint strippers.” We’ll tell you what you
should be looking for. There are a lot of good ones out there. And the laws are
changing, the technology is changing, so there are fewer of those unsafe types
out there. But to get back to your question, you’ve got to remove that old
paint first.

Now, once it’s off, then the next thing you should do is
prime that surface. Because, let’s face it, you had all kinds of stuff on
there. We don’t know what you’re going to be going on top of. We want to make
sure that that finish coat sticks. So you want to prime it. You want to use an
oil-based or alkyd-based primer.

And then finally, you can put a ceiling paint over that.
And I say ceiling paint because ceiling paints are formulated a bit
differently. First of all, they’re always flat, so that’s important; it’s not
going to show any defects in the ceiling. If you have anything that’s a drywall
seam or a nail pop or any kind of deflection, it shows really badly when you
use any kind of paint that has a sheen. So this way, you’ll have a flat surface
there. And it’s also a little heavier, which means it doesn’t drip on your head
when you’re painting. And that’s always very convenient.

LESLIE: Alright. We’ve got one more question here and this
one’s from Jack who writes: “How do I check to see if I have lead pipes? My
home was built in 1922 and I’m concerned about the water quality.”

TOM: So, you know, it’s pretty easy to find out if you have
lead pipes, Jack. What I would do is I would find the main water pipe when it
comes into the house. Now, it’s going to look pretty disgusting and grimy but
what you want to do is take a knife and you want to sort of scrape away – you
can just rub the blade over it. It’ll scrape away whatever grime on the
outside. And if you find that you have some really shiny, soft metal
underneath, you have lead pipes.

Now, if you do have lead, you have to decide which part of
this you’re going to replace. I mean while you’d like to do it all, the most
likely part you would find lead is still in that main water line that goes from
the street into the house. Now, if that’s the case, replacing that line is your
responsibility; the water company will not replace it for you. They only bring
it, generally, to the street. You’ve got to bring it down into your house and
in.

It’s a pretty expensive project because of the digging that’s
involved. You’ve got to make sure that you call the utilities before you do any
digging, because you don’t want to hit anything else that’s underground at the
same time. But I would look to install a PEX pipe – P-E-X ­­– because that’s
going to give you longevity, durability and get that lead out of your life
forever.

LESLIE: Alright. Hope that helps, Jack. Good luck with the
projects.

TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Hey,
thank you so much for listening to us this hour. We hope we’ve given you some
good tips and advice to help with your fall fix-up or holiday projects. If you’ve
got questions, remember 888-MONEY-PIT never closes. You can call us, 24/7. And
by the way, if we’re not on the air when you do call, we will toss your name
into that very same Money Pit hard hat to quality for next week’s prize.

So, keep those questions coming. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …

LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.

END
HOUR 1 TEXT

(Copyright
2019 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio file
may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of
Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.)

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